Ever wonder what makes a watch brand truly timeless? I recently sat down with Longines' new CEO, Patrick Aoun, and his insights completely reshaped my understanding of this iconic brand. Having spent 18 years with Longines, he's clearly got a deep passion for the craft, and it shows! What I discovered was a fascinating blend of history, innovation, and a refreshingly down-to-earth approach to luxury.
We met at the stunning new Longines boutique in Zurich, a space that perfectly embodies the brand's quiet confidence. The boutique, housed in a beautiful 19th-century building, feels like a serene oasis. It's one of the largest Longines boutiques in the world, setting the stage for a brand that is reasserting itself.
Aoun immediately highlighted the three core pillars of Longines: professional timekeeping, instruments for pilots and explorers, and, of course, elegance. But here's where it gets interesting: these aren't just separate categories; they're intertwined. The expertise in professional timekeeping directly influenced innovations in watchmaking.
Take the rotating bezel, for example. Most people associate it with dive watches, but it was Longines who first introduced this to the watch industry, thanks to their collaboration with pilot Phillip Weems. Then there's the flyback chronograph, invented in 1930 and patented in 1935. In 1936, Longines launched the legendary 13 ZN movement. Aoun painted a vivid picture of the importance of precision timing for pilots, where seconds could mean life or death.
The new Spirit Pilot Flyback perfectly embodies Longines' future direction. At 39.5mm with a thickness of just 13.4mm, it houses a Longines-exclusive movement, is chronometer-certified, water-resistant to 100 meters, and magnetic-resistant. The proportions are just right: comfortable, wearable, and refined.
The Spirit collection beautifully bridges gaps that previously existed. It has all the luxury elements, while maintaining the toughness of an authentic tool watch.
Aoun's strategy is to dominate his lane, offering the best value for money. A basic Spirit Pilot three-hand watch comes in under CHF 2,500. The strategy is smart: attract customers with an accessible piece and let them experience the quality. Years later, they might upgrade to a flyback or Ultra-Chron.
But here's where it gets controversial... When asked why Longines hasn't revived the legendary 13 ZN movement, Aoun's answer revealed his core philosophy. He's not driven by chasing higher margins. He wants to make Swiss watchmaking accessible to everyone. To him, luxury is an experience, not just a price tag.
Looking ahead, Longines is committed to respecting its heritage. The brand is moving toward slimmer, better-proportioned watches and retiring oversized cases. The Spirit collection is just the beginning. All movements in the automatic sports collections are Longines-exclusive, made by ETA with cutting-edge technology. It's an advantage of being part of the Swatch Group, and Aoun intends to leverage it.
When asked which reference he wishes more people knew about, Aoun didn't hesitate: the Ultra-Chron. It's a collector's piece hiding in plain sight.
Longines has always been on my radar. After this conversation, it's locked in my sights. What do you think of Longines' approach to luxury? Do you agree with Aoun's vision, or do you have a different perspective? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
